Skin, to full cover or to not full cover.

I think I’m obsessed with skin right now. Maybe it’s because it’s coming upto spring/summer.

Working for MAC, and as a freelance artist, you really do see so many different skin types and problems.. And I tell you what, one thing I have learnt is

Less is more. 

Let me explain.

When I started working for MAC, I couldn’t wait to plaster my face with studio fix foundation, and the heaviest concealor possible. I LOVED IT. But, as time went on I started to learn and develop my skills and my opinion changed. I hated how concealor would sit thick an creased in the dryness under my eyes, and how it looked over my patches of dry skin. So what if you have acne? Bad skin? When I say less is more, I don’t mean everyone should just put on a really light tinted moisturiser and bam, magical flawless skin. Instead use something with slightly less coverage, whether it’s a foundation or a BB cream, or a tinted moisturiser, but then, build by cleverly concealing or colour correcting the areas of concern, or even both. A skin will have areas of imperfection, no matter how big or small, an they will need more coverage. You may have absolutely amazing skin but you are extremely concerned about your circles under the eyes but that doesn’t mean you have to go into full coverage all over, just concentrate on correcting under the eyes.

Here’s an example of my routine at the moment. Yours will vary.

  1. I start by prepping my skin using a lightweight moisturiser and a primer for radiance. I then use eye cream as I have always suffered with dryness under the eyes.
  2. I use a product called Face and Body by MAC. It’s low to medium buildable foundation that’s slightly more skin conditioning and leaves a natural satin shine finish. Now for me this is perfect as I like a slightly more dewy glow to my skin, however it doesn’t cover my spots completely  and I still have darkness under my eyes.
  3. After applying my foundation, I can see where I still need improvement. I suffer with darkness under my eyes as opposed to redness. I start by correcting this colour. For the dark, purply tones, use a warmer tone, for example a peachy/pink and a peach/orange tone for darker skintones. This will help draw out the darkness as it counteracts the undertones. Then, using a concealor of my skintone, I use my ring finger (less pressure) and tap it under the eye. Try not to drag it.
  4. If you have spots all you can see is red. Redness, whether its rosacea or spots can be neutralised with yellow or some people use green. Again, apply this lightly to the area and conceal over with a matching skintone concealor. If your spots are dry, warm up your concealor in your fingers or use a slightly more hydrating concealor and just tap the product over the blemish. Again, don’t drag it or just rub it in as it won’t be as covering and may sit wrong.
  5. Lightly powder over to finish again, only in areas you feel you need it.

It will take time to discover what’s best for you, i’m still learning and unfortunately not all of us are lucky enough to just use one product. But if you’re not happy with your complexion, start taking into consideration what it is that isn’t working for your skin and get to understand it.

Here is an inspiring photo I found that made me really realise how clever application can work,

Natasha BinnsComment